Milk for Dinner!

Milk
7290 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 939-6455

A last minute urge for their blue velvet cake brought JM and UE to Milk, but what they got was a good hearty dinner on a cold LA winter night. Milk is typically a great place for lunch or dessert, and now it's good to know it's a great option for a quick dinner! Choosing from the permanent menu on the wall and the specials to the left, orders are made at the counter. It was hard for JM to focus since the gelato case was right next to the register and the dessert case was overflowing with fresh cookies, decorative cakes, colorful cupcakes, plump muffins and lovely bread loaves.

JM and UE shared the warm, creamy, corny with a kick, goodness of the tortilla soup. For the entree, JM had the croque madame. It was unconventional and was probably more like an open faced ham, egg and cheese sandwich topped with sausage gravy, but it hit the spot as a dinner sandwich. UE was craving meat and decided on the media noche. The hot pressed sandwich was hearty and the pickles added a surprising crunch. The side salad was perfectly simple with vinegar and a pinch of sea salt.

For dessert, the decision was extremely difficult. From red velvet cupcakes to strawberry ice cream sandwiches, JM and UE settled on the tres leches cake and the blue velvet cake (of course). The tres leche cake was not as milky and soaked as one would expect. The cake was a dry interpretation of the traditional dessert and needed more sweetness and milk. The vanilla bean whipped topping was nice, but added to the "typical" cake quality. The blue velvet cake was good as usual! The vibrant blue hue may throw some off, but the rich velvety blueberry cake with embedded blueberries helps to overcome the initial color shock quickly. In the end, definitely go for the food, but skip the tres leches....unless you like soggy vanilla cake.

Show 'Nuff

Pho Show
4349 Sepulveda Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90230
310-398-5200

[read this in the latest edition of Breaks magazine]

Although the Westside has plenty of Japanese, Persian, Indian and Thai restaurants, there is scant representation of Vietnamese cuisine. And we won’t get into the dearth of good Chinese food in this article.

Now Pho Show, continuing the grand pho pun tradition, is bringing a bit of the eastside to us. Culver City has been cultivating a restaurant row downtown for the past few years. But Pho (rhymes with “duh”) Show is located where Lindblade runs into Sepulveda Boulevard near shops where you can get a Thai massage or tropical fish, not by wine bars and gastropubs.

It’s a small minimalist place with mango-colored walls and hard white chairs. There are six tables for two on the sidewalk surrounded by new flowering vines and bamboo plants. On a late Monday afternoon, there were about three other tables occupied. I chose a spot outside. It was cool for a July day and the building created shade so the temperature was pleasant. The sight and sound of traffic was not relaxing, but drivers singing to their radio and babies in strollers pushed by their nannies provided atmoshere.

There are several starters and drinks, including beer, wine, and soju cocktails. I started with a glass of iced Vietnamese coffee and shrimp spring rolls. The coffee was strong and sweetened by condensed milk, but I was disappointed that it didn’t come in a Vietnamese coffee press. I like having to wait for the coffee to drip slowly from the metal contraption into a cup and then stirring it into a glass of ice. You have a choice of fish sauce or peanut sauce with the rolls. I chose fish sauce, which, for the uninitiated, is not as strong as it sounds, but is more vinegary. The “salad rolls” come in a fresh rice wrapper filled with rice noodles, shrimp, basil, mint and cilantro. They are a refreshing choice for warm weather. There are also versions with meat or tofu or you can get the fried cha gio.

There are other rice and noodle dishes with endless combinations of meat and vegetables, nothing more than $11, however pho is the main attraction. Pho is a thin rice noodle soup with a clear beef broth, various meat options and garnishes that each diner uses as desired. I ordered a basic small bowl with rare steak, but I have friends that can’t eat pho without tripe and brisket. When your server asks, request the steak on the side or it won’t be rare for long. The small bowl was a good size though at $6.75 not the deal you can get at other pho joints. The broth had a delicate beef flavor with the aroma of what I believe was cardamom and cloves. Perhaps not as hearty as some would like, but it was perfect for the summer. White and green onions floated on the top. The noodles below the surface were a bit clumped together, but fine once stirred around. The steak came on a separate dish with more onions. You also get Thai basil, sprouts and lime wedges to add at your discretion—I put in everything along with some red chili sauce, of which there are three kinds on the table.

Pho Show doesn’t have the funky “authenticity” of a place downtown or further east, but who says all pho should be eaten at a hole in the wall? Why should we have to endure the 10 freeway for Vietnamese food? There is one significant problem. Pho, like its Mexican counterpart menudo, is known as hangover food. Unfortunately, Pho Show doesn’t open until 5:30 on the weekends. But nearby you can always get a Cubano sandwich or a massage nearby while you wait.

Tasting Flight: Camellia Cellars

Camellia Cellars
57 Front Street
Healdsburg, CA 95448
(888)404-WINE

In late August, UE & friends discovered a gem hidden away in the residential streets of Healdsburg, CA. One of our last stops before we drove back to LA with our 20+ bottles, UE was determined to find a Zinfandel that was crisp, sweet and dry. The complimentary tastings lead to the purchase of a 2007 First Kiss, Proprietor's White Wine Blend from Sonoma County. With a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and the sweetness of Viognier & Muscat, the taste was crisp and the body was simple. First Kiss is a delicately balanced wine with an acidity that does not overpower the playfulness of the citrus undertones.

After experiencing a wonderful Cab at the Gundlach Bundschu Winery, UE was in search of a 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon. The hunger (or thirst) for a complex red resulted in the discovery of a 2004 Sangiovese Riserva from the Merlo Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley. A perfectly balanced blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah, the body is round with a complexity that is masterfully restrained. This full-bodied red has indeed changed UE's preference for the seemingly predictable dry white wines. If only I could find a 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon...

Delicacheena in NYC

Brasserie Les Halles
411 Park Ave South
New York, NY 10016
212-679-4111

Au Bon Pain
Locations all over the East Coast

Grand Central Terminal
87 E 42nd Street
New York, NY 10017

INK did so much research that it's really a shame she didn't stay in the city longer, at least as long as her dining checklist. In the interest of time, convenience, and family relations, she ate pizza from Sbarro! (Although she did have some pretty good thin-crust eggplant pizza made by a New York transplant in Vermont. . .) No hot dogs from a street vendor were had, either.

The eating highlight was Les Halles, Anthony Bourdain's former gig, Bourdain of the what-really-happens-in-the-kitchen books and travelogues on the Food Network and Travel Channel. Mom likes the shows and Dad likes escargot so it had parental approval. Les Halles was dark and loud with happy locals and tourists and the usual "ain't we hip" restaurant playlist. The only song INK can remember is Amy Winehouse's "Rehab," but perhaps because that was the soundtrack of summer 2007.

We started with the escargot, of course, with plenty of bread to sop up the hot, garlicky butter. Even the first-timers dug it. Dad got the vertical pork tenderloin. Mom had the brasserie classic, steak frites. Cousin and Niece ordered the le fancy macaroni and cheese with gruyere and serrano ham. INK was very pleased with her truffle sauce and froi gras burger-- loosely packed and oh-so-juicy. Creme brulee, tarte aux pommes and profiteroles don't disappoint. Exciting and cutting edge? Definitely not, but rich, comforting, satisfying.

The next morning, the chain Au Bon Pain was a pleasant spot for breakfast before hitting MOMA to complete the Delicacheena van Gogh summer tour. Love the self-serve bakery of endless can't-decides.

A salad of falafel, couscous, tabouleh, salad green, eggplant, etc. at Grand Central was a healthy way to end the stay.

So perhaps this was more of a reconnaissance trip--a lot of ground was covered in that tour bus. INK, however, was pleased to have checked off eat a "fancy" dinner, run to/in Central Park to see the Alice in Wonderland statue, see "Starry Night," and don't kill any relatives.

Looking for K-town in Culver City

Gyenari
9540 Washington Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90231
310-838-3131

Delicacheena usually travels to Koreatown to satisfy their craving for sizzling meat and kimchee. With the opening of a Korean BBQ Lounge in Culver City, UE and the SPII crew sneaked in after the lunchtime rush to enjoy a meal that is happily consumed in the late-night hours.

Gyenari offers outdoor dining with a bar area located at the front. The remaining space contains black leather booths and a beautifully lit yellow flower wall divider. Unlike traditional Korean establishments, the atmosphere was calm and quite spacious.

The lunch menu offers both recognizable dishes as well as salads & sandwiches. No barley tea was available but we did enjoy the cranberry hibiscus tea. The surprisingly meaty pork Mandoo appetizer satisfied our empty stomachs but the mild kimchee and chicken broth side dishes set the tone for what we now knew would not be traditional Korean entrees.

The piknik plates were combination meals with different meat offerings. The tempura was light and the batter surrounding the vegetables and shrimp was flavorful and not over-fried. The side noodles were a solid offering that was appreciated more as the meal progressed.

We had high expectations for the bulgogi plates but like the kimchee before it, the spice level and seasonings were drastically dull. TOS was happy with his spicy pork but agreed the adjective "spicy" should be removed from the name. Meanwhile, KKK's beef bulgogi was not offered on a sizzling plate. Without the usual smoky flavors and inescapable meat perfume, the non-grilled meat left a bland taste and a chewy texture. For a traditional preparation, we recommend visiting during dining hours as patrons are able to grill meat at their tables.

UE's pan seared tofu was a bright spot among the piknik plates. The sauce was familiar and did not overwhelm the natural flavors of the tofu. The texture was slightly firm and maintained its form well. Overall, a simple dish that can satisfy any foodie.

Since the A.L.T. was not under scrutiny, URL happily devoured the sandwich and the perfectly shaped onion rings. The ahi burger was seared and prepared exactly as it should be. URL declared it the best among all she's ever tasted. After taking a bite, KKK was convinced and will order the sandwich on her next visit.

As lunch came to the close, we all left room for dessert. Four delightfully fried donuts with a raspberry cream sauce washed away any disappointment we had with our meal. The donuts crunched on the outside and warmth exuded from the center. The raspberry sauce tasted natural and freshly prepared. We stared at the empty plate and wondered when we would return for these treats again.

Gyenari is not a substitute for the traditional places in K-town. Do not be discouraged with the lunchtime combination meals as they come through with their other offerings and well-made desserts.

Pre-Game Treats

Treat Street
secret location varies

What a better way to preface a game day than with La Taquiza (if you're not tailgating, that is) and what's better than preceding that with baked goods?

The latest Treat Street bake sale was last Saturday on Carnation off of Micheltorena in Silver Lake. INK felt carsick after we missed a left and had to break out a map (!) and circle back around through the twisty streets. Plus it was an overcast morning, but that didn't put a damper on our pursuit of sweetness.

We bypassed the honeydew jigglers and Kiss in full face-paint cookies. UE particularly enjoyed the hand print sugar cookies. JM gave an unexpected high rating for the wheat-free apple blossom muffins. The UB40's, red wine chocolate caramel cupcakes with a sprinkle of sea salt, really tasted like all those things and worked well. The mini upside-down cakes, made with cornmeal, were tart with what may have been plum. There were doughnut muffins and moist "sarsaparilla thrilla" bundt cake. The butterscotch tarts were not butterscotchy enough. Salt n Pepa shorbreads were not too sweet, but the pumpkin whoopie pie was a sugary, creamy mess. . . that we loved. Olive oil cake had a nice texture. The lemon meringue cupcakes held up well to refrigeration and were still nice a few days later.

Heavy Metal Barbecue

Los Angeles BBQ Festival

L.C.'s Barbeque
5800 Blue Parkway
Kansas City, MO 64129
816-923-4484

No real point in writing about the other pitmasters that we tried (Bandana from St. Louis, Parise from Los Angeles) because the main event at the Los Angeles BBQ Festival, curiously located off the Santa Monica Pier, was L.C.'s Barbeque. . . with a Metal Shop soundtrack.

The (fake) hair band played a two hour set that almost spanned our wait for meaty goodness. We were naive when we saw the line for L.C.'s and thought, "Let's check out the other stands and then come back." But the queue for 'cue had not diminished. We were amused by Bon Jovi and Guns N Roses covers and enjoyed the ocean breezes while slowly easing toward the overworked pits.

When we finally made it to the front, it was mesmerizing to watch the women hack at the sticky smoldering slabs on the butcher block. The saucy ribs and rib tips were worth the wait--tender, with just enough chewiness and crunchy charred bits. And, oh, the smoke! The aroma of leftovers lingered in the car and the house and made the lunchroom salivate the next day.